Wayfare Tavern, San Francisco

welcome to Wayfare Tavern

welcome to Wayfare Tavern

D and I went to Tyler Florence’s new flagship San Francisco restaurant, Wayfare Tavern, last week, the night that the Giants let the Phillies slip from their grasp, so both teams had to go back East to see who won.

Tyler, if I may be so bold and refer to him that way, has been a busy man! It wasn’t that long ago that Hegui and I went to his then new store in Mill Valley. Lucky for us in the Bay Area, the darling T-man has chosen our region to call home.

Wayfare Tavern is in the Financial District on Sacramento between Sansome and Montgomery Streets. I understand that it is tremendously popular, so reservations are highly recommended and somewhat hard to obtain.

Among numerous distinguishing characteristics that set Wayfare apart from other stylish new places is its remarkable look. When it seems that every trend-setting spot these days is trying for the next oh-so-cool ultra-modern, Tyler’s embraces a delightful old-fashioned feel that stunned me. On the exterior, it looks for the world like a British pub with dramatic wood paneling and moldings all painted dark black surrounding large picture windows with gold crests symbolizing the restaurant.

doesn't Wayfare Tavern look like a British pub?

doesn't Wayfare Tavern look like a British pub?

upstairs dining room at Wayfare Tavern

upstairs dining room at Wayfare Tavern

even the bathroom has an amazing look

even the bathroom has an amazing look

Inside seems like a marvelous Victorian home as I imagine one would have looked when everything was brand new, clean and without any of the age, ware-and-tear or peculiar smells that you encounter when touring these “ancient ladies” now-a-days. Literally, there was so much to absorb that my mind couldn’t fathom it all. The ground floor is very large with enormously high ceilings. It was packed the night we were there and I understand that Tyler himself was milling through the crowd, though unfortunately, we didn’t see him.

I love the wallpaper pattern!

I love the wallpaper pattern!

Mostly we were on the second level in the private room. That floor is reached by a remarkable staircase, wrapped with massive dark wood railings and large decorative finials. It leads to this stunning room and tiny bar. It was wallpapered with this bold dark print that I adored. I asked D about the walls in a state of shock. He chided me by saying that “wallpaper is coming back.” Hmm.

Encrusting almost every surface not used for dining or preparing drinks was a myriad of paintings, old photos, hunting trophies, knickknacks, little nests of tiny birds eggs, and in the private room, one entire wall full of books. All of this together was both ridiculous excess and absolutely perfect.

Since D and I arrived a bit early, we sat at the tiny upstairs bar for a drink. They have a short list of unusual cocktails. I wanted to try the Darkness at Noon but apparently the bartender didn’t have one of the key ingredients at the upstairs bar. Instead I went with the classic Manhattan. D had a glass of sparkling. Our host, Jocelyn, joined us there until some of the other guests arrived.

The meal was family style. We tried a few of each course and had plenty to share. The food itself is essentially comfort classics: macaroni and cheese, fried chicken, deviled eggs, that sort of thing. They offer a large selection of meaty dishes for you carnivores though Tyler hasn’t forgotten to have some vegetarian items. The bottom of the menu even states, “Vegan entrees available upon request.”

some wild table decorations at Wayfare Tavern

some wild table decorations at Wayfare Tavern

the savory popovers came warm from the oven

the savory popovers came warm from the oven

baked macaroni and cheese

baked macaroni and cheese

delightful tuna crudo salad

delightful tuna crudo salad

roasted beet salad

roasted beet salad

They started us with some wine and these really good savory popovers that came warm from the oven. I tried the baked macaroni and cheese, yellow fin tuna crudo salad and the roasted local beets and homemade ricotta salad to start. All of these were good. I especially enjoyed the tuna crudo. There’s something about large chunks of raw tuna that always excites me. We had a few entrees. I tasted the grilled wild Alaskan salmon, but since I’m not a huge salmon fan, wasn’t that impressed.

Our generous host told the staff that I was vegetarian, so they brought me an order of ricotta dumplings that come with collard greens, mushrooms and a mushroom purée. I particularly liked the mushroom purée. The cute dumplings seemed a bit undercooked.

ricotta dumplings with mushrooms and mushroom purée

ricotta dumplings with mushrooms and mushroom purée

walnut caramel tart

walnut caramel tart

warm ginger cookies

warm ginger cookies

For dessert, we had the Tolan’s carrot cake and walnut caramel tart. I skipped the cake as I’ve an allergy to pineapple. The tart was divine! So buttery and walnut-y. Yum! I had two pieces and could have easily pigged out on a few more, had any remained after the guests ravished the dish.

I talked with my friend, Suma, about Wayfare Tavern the next day. She’s been twice already! That’s remarkable since they’ve only been open for four months. She also loved the things that I did. Putting her ratings on a five point scale, she ranked décor a five; food, 3.5 and Tyler Florence 5-plus. So there you have it. Sex-appeal and food remain perfect pairings.