chive

poached King salmon in lemon butter sauce

poached King salmon in lemon butter sauce

I got this huge and expensive slab of King salmon at our favorite fish market in the Mission the other day. I wanted to try my hand at poaching salmon in court bouillon. Recipes for court bouillon abound! In the end what I realized is that this is just a clear broth. You can basically make with any vegetable you find in your refrigerator, plus some acidic agent, such as white wine or lemon juice. You don’t have to go all Julia Child about it and spend the entire day slaving in the kitchen, though that is fine, too. In my case I used what was at hand for a fairly traditional broth, with the addition of a stalk of lemon grass, which gave this broth a bit of a South East Asian flare.

king salmon poaching in lemon grass court bouillon

king salmon poaching in lemon grass court bouillon

poached King salmon in lemon butter sauce

3 ½ lb slab king salmon, skin on but de-scaled

for court bouillon:

½ cups dry white wine
1 whole scallion
½ onion
1 stalk of lemon grass, smashed with a cleaver
Black pepper corns
Kosher salt
1 stalk of celery
Few strands of parsley
1 piece of fennel stalk
1 carrot

for lemon butter sauce:

1 stick butter
¼ cup lemon juice
2 tbsp capers
4 tbsp chives chopped

Fill a pot with enough water to cover the salmon. Add all court bouillon ingredients to it, bring to a boil, reduce temperature and simmer for about 30 minutes. Discard vegetables. Let court bouillon cool down.

Lay salmon, skin-down, in a large pan so that it lies flat. Submerge with cooled court bouillon. Bring to a simmer and cook until done, about 10 to 15 minutes. If you choose to cut the salmon into smaller pieces before poaching, it may take as little as 3-5 minutes.

Using a large spatula carefully remove salmon from bath and place it on a serving platter. Keep warm.

Add butter and lemon juice to a saucepan on medium-high. Whisk until melted, remove from heat and add capers and 3 tbsp of chives. Mix well.

Sprinkle remaining chives over salmon and serve with lemon butter on the side.

Remember to keep the leftover broth and use it as a base for other soups. It is very aromatic.

On the night I served this, we had our friends Amie, Whitney, John, Chris and Valéria over for dinner. Amie and Whitney surprised us with a nice card, gift, some fruit tarts and a vegan chocolate cake celebrating our 3rd year wedding anniversary. It was a fun evening!

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Labneh is sort of a Lebanese version of sour cream or perhaps a very creamy cream cheese. Joumana uses it to great effect on her food blog. Look here, here and here for some excellent ideas. Hegui was so inspired that he bought a large container of labneh, mostly to snack on, it seems. I used it with this quick bread as I thought the tanginess would complement the pumpkin and herbs. You can use it like sour cream in most recipes that call for it. I wonder how Polish sour soup would taste with labneh? Mmmm.

savory pumpkin bread with garden herbs and labneh

savory pumpkin bread with garden herbs and labneh

This recipe comes from cooks.com, though I’ve modified it a bit. Aside from adding dollops of labneh, I used a bit less sugar, soy milk instead of cow’s milk, and more randomly mixed in herbs from our community garden plot. In mine, I used chives, mint and sage. You can add basil and cilantro, too. I thought about Italian parsley but decided that it would overpower everything else. Next time, I intend to top the loaves with jalapeño slices for a bit of heat.

my container of labneh, here spelled labne

my container of labneh, here spelled labne

savory pumpkin bread with garden herbs and labneh

2 eggs
1/3 cup vegetable oil
½ cup soy milk
1 cup mashed pumpkin (here it was kabocha)
2 cups flour
1 tbsp baking powder
½ tsp baking soda
3 tbsp sugar
2 tbsp mixed fresh herbs
1 tsp per mini-loaf labneh

Preheat oven to 350F.

Beat eggs then mix in liquid ingredients, pumpkin and herbs. In another bowl, blend dry ingredients. Then mix into wet. I used disposable mini-loaf pans to reduce mess. If you use a regular baking dish, grease liberally. Add batter to mini-loafs just over half full. Dollop labneh in center of each mini-loaf. Bake about 50 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean.

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I made this tasty and healthy dish from germinated red lentils. Hegui sprouted them from dried a few days before. Inspired by all the fresh herbs in our community garden plot, I used a mix of chive, mint, Italian parsley, sage and lemon thyme. Any combination might do. The kale stems are sort of optional. They add a nice green color. And of course we have a huge abundance of them with the success of the kale right now. What do you do with your leftover kale stems?

germinated red lentil sprouts with fresh garden herbs

germinated red lentil sprouts with fresh garden herbs

This sauté reminds me of a warm salad. Fragrant from the herbs and nutty, the lentils are a bit crunchy, too.

germinated red lentil sprouts with fresh garden herbs

2 cups germinated red lentil sprouts
1 onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1 cup kale stems with some leaves, finely sliced
3 tbsp olive oil
½ cup dry white wine
Salt and black pepper to taste
1 to 2 tbsp fresh herbs: chive, mint, Italian parsley, sage, thyme

Heat olive oil in medium skillet. Add onion. Sauté on medium until onion becomes translucent. Add kale stems and garlic. Sauté a bit more then add white wine, cover pan and allow to steam. Add sprouted red lentil and fold vegetables together. Add salt and black pepper to taste. Cover and cook until lentils heat through. Mix in fresh herbs. Serve.

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I’ve always been curious about baking with puff pastry yet this is my first time: a puff pastry virgin no more!

Last week I saw a beautiful recipe on the cool blog, gourmet food, for asparagus tart with caprino de cabra that convinced me that is was about time for me to give it a try. The recipe uses lots of dairy. Aside from the filling, the puff pastry is loaded with butter. I was saving up, having eaten mostly vegan that week, so I splurged a bit with this one.

asparagus, fava and edamame tart

asparagus, fava and edamame tart

our weekend redwood forest retreat

our weekend redwood forest retreat

This was for a picnic lunch on our recent wine-tasting weekend trip to beautiful Sonoma County. We planned it around the spring wine pick-up at Williams Selyem. People are so excited about that winery. Several of our friends wanted to go with us but most of them bagged it when they learned that the event coincided with Mother’s Day. Chris was free, which was perfect. And we were extra lucky this time: our friends Devin and Jocelyn invited us to stay in their new cabin in the woods in Guerneville. (Unfortunately they couldn’t come themselves: a wedding in Southern California.) The cabin is nestled among so many stunning and remarkably tall redwood trees. The trees surrounding the house were enormous! I always feel like I’m inside a cathedral when I am among redwoods. Awesome.

asparagus, fava and edamame tart

¾ lb asparagus
½ cup fava beans, shelled, blanched and popped out of their inner shells
½ cup milk
1/3 cup water
1 tbsp flour
1 container frozen puffy pastry (14oz or ~400grams)
2 egg yolks, lightly beaten
4tbsp sweet onions, chopped fine
3 tbsp parsley
1/3 cup parmesan cheese
4-5 tbsp olive oil
Kosher salt
Crushed red pepper
Freshly ground black pepper
Chives for decoration

some key ingredients for asparagus, fava and edamame

some key ingredients for asparagus, fava and edamame

fresh asparagus and fava beans

fresh asparagus and fava beans

preparing the vegetables

preparing the vegetables

Defrost puffy pastry in the fridge for 20-24h. Bring to room temperature 3 hours before use.

Peel asparagus outer skin and discard then cut tips off and reserve for decorating the top of the pie. Using potato peeler, shave all spears thinly.

Using a saucepan, combine shaved asparagus, onion, olive oil, water and milk. Bring it close to a boil and cook for a couple minutes. Add edamame and fava. Continue cooking for another minute or so. Juices should be absorbed by the vegetables. Mine didn’t completely, so to thicken it, I dissolved a tablespoon of flour in 1 or 2 tablespoon of cold water and poured it over vegetables. Mix to incorporate. Remove from heat.

Add salt, peppers, cheese, parsley and egg yolks. Immediately mix to combine then let cool for about 15 minutes.

Preheat oven to 375F

Stretch puffy pastry in a rectangular Pyrex type glass baking dish leaving some dough along the edges. Pour vegetable mix over pastry. Attractively arrange asparagus tips on top. Sprinkle some parmesan cheese on top and bake in the oven for about 35 minutes. Edges will turn into a golden color and become a bit flaky. Remove from oven. Let cool down completely.

Now get a good bottle of wine, some country bread and enjoy the spring.

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spaghetti with sea urchin

by Stevie on February 17, 2011

I came across this recipe ages ago in a really cool cookbook, Sweet Myrtle and Bitter Honey. It is about Sardinian food. Hegui and I saw the author, Efisio Farris, give an interview and cooking demonstration on some Martha Stewart show a few years ago. I immediately got the book, read through it, then got distracted. But that spaghetti with sea urchin roe idea has stuck with me.

spaghetti with sea urchin

spaghetti with sea urchin

I love uni, the Japanese name for sea urchin roe. The animals themselves are quite beautiful. Look here to see some. This very informative site describes in graphic detail sea urchin mating rituals and eating practices. Check it out with caution! They’re real partiers!! The roe are the egg sacks from, I guess, the female sea urchin. Weird.

I’ve never prepared these before but have enjoyed uni at Sanraku and Live Sushi. Efisio describes them as “elegant and sexy—a delicacy in every way” and I have to agree. Nevertheless, this is an acquired taste. They’ve a very creamy texture and flavor faintly of seawater. Very nice.

fresh sea urchin roe

fresh sea urchin roe

This dish is a snap to make though you need to get very fresh sea urchin roe. We were finally at Nijiya Market at the right time and got two tiny boxes of them. The original recipe calls for about a half-pound. I weighed mine once we got home. There was only about a quarter pound. Still, this dish was marvelous and full of that subtle creamy oceanic flavor that I associate with sea urchin.

spaghetti with sea urchin

1 lb spaghetti, prepared per package directions
¼ to ½ lb sea urchin roe
4 tbsps olive oil
4 cloves crushed garlic
1 small bunch of fresh chives, minced
salt and black pepper to taste

In a small bowl, whisk sea urchin, chive, salt, black pepper and half of the olive oil together. Set aside.

Heat remaining olive oil and garlic in a large skillet for a few minutes. Remove garlic. Toss with cooked spaghetti. Transfer to a large bowl and toss with sea urchin mixture. Serve.

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purslane feta pasta with fresh herbs

This recipe is a variation of spring onion, chive and feta pasta. I love the original. We have this dish at least once or twice a month. It’s very simple to make: you can whip it together in less than 20 minutes, all prep included.

This time around I added fresh oregano and purslane as I had them on hand. I love purslane and never seem to eat enough of it.

Purslane has a sweet and sour flavor. It has an enjoyably slippery texture in the mouth which makes it fun eating. I only see it for sale in the summer, so it must be a seasonal thing. I got mine at at the Alemany Farmers Market but I’ve seen it at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market as well as at the Mexican market in the Mission District, here in San Francisco.

purslane

purslane feta pasta with fresh herbs

1 medium bunch purslane, rinsed and roughly chopped, stems included
1 bunch fresh chives, rinsed and chopped fine
Leaves from 5 sprigs of fresh oregano
4 spring onions, rinsed with roots removed, green and white parts coarsely chopped
½ lb. good French sheep’s milk feta, cut into cubes
salt and black pepper to taste
½ cup olive oil
¼ tsp. crushed red pepper
12 kalamata olives, pitted and cut in halves
1 package long pasta, cooked per package directions
¾ cup water from cooked pasta reserved

Throw everything into a large pasta dish while pasta cooks.

Cook pasta per package instructions. Drain, reserving some of the hot water.

Place hot pasta on top of all ingredients, followed by the hot water and toss to combine. The feta cheese will melt a bit getting a creamy texture. If necessary crush some of the cubes with the back of a spoon and toss with the juices at the bottom of the bowl. Let it sit for a couple of minutes for flavors to marry. Drizzle a bit more of extra virgin olive on top before serving. It’s delicious!

moody San Francisco skyline with the fog rolling across downtown

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spring onion, chive and feta pasta

spring onion, chive and feta pasta

This recipe is a variation of one I found in Marcella Hazan’s cookbook, “Marcella Cucina.” Hers calls for chive but no spring onion or olives. When I first tried making this in Astoria, I couldn’t find chive easily but spring onion was quite abundant. Spring onion alone is a little too oniony but chive alone isn’t quite as peppery and exciting. In California, I use spring onion and chive which is now generally available in markets as well as the kalamata olives which give a more complex and earthy taste to the dish. Feta cheese is highly variable and a key ingredient here. I prefer a cheese that will melt somewhat. Many fetas stay quite firm even in hot water. You may have to try a few until you find one that works for your taste. This is a very simple recipe which I’ve made for years and always enjoy. The feta I used this time is from 22 and Irving Market. It’s the French one. It smelled a little like cheap pinot noir, i.e. like a barnyard, but it melted well.

some ingredients for spring onion, chive and feta pasta

some ingredients for spring onion, chive and feta pasta

Spring Onion, Chive and Feta Pasta

1 bunch chive, cleaned and chopped
6 spring onions, cleaned, roots removed and chopped
1/2 lb. feta cheese, cut into cubes
salt and black pepper to taste
¼ cup olive oil
¼ tsp. crushed red pepper
12 kalamata or similar olives, pitted and cut in halves
1 package long pasta, cooked per package directions
¼ cup water from cooked pasta reserved

While boiling pasta, put all ingredients except for reserved water in large platter. Add hot pasta to bowl and toss. Pour reserved water to moisten pasta a bit. Toss and then let sit for a few minutes for ingredients to marry. Serve with salad and red wine, of course! :)

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